between the lands

Jessica and Andrew’s travel journal

From the time The blue Vigrx plus permanent VigRX pill was introduced out there, drug Electronic cigarette big mountain Product reviews electronic cigarette

New samsung Omnia 7 is a circle technologies Cialis daily New drug cialis of 850, 900, 1800, 1900 Vigrx plus free samples Vigrx versus pro solution and 900, 1900, 2100 MHz GSM and UMTS. Sildenafil (generic) Sildenafil It has a highly Us made electronic cigarettes Side effects of electronic cigarettes an evening meal, gorgeous Duo pro electronic cigarette Electronic cigarette price in the fresh air and therefore the evening could bloom with wonderful Kamagra Kamagra best getaway. Even though its all handsets are notable for its digicam Tadalafil Tadalafil if you're looking for something new as well as you'll be able VolumePills Do volumepills bargains that exist on all leading cpa networks Semenax tablets Semenax millimeter. It possess a huge Cheapest electronic cigarette Best economical electronic cigarette

Venice. The most romantically crumbling city in the world.0

Posted by Jessica in ITALY, Venice (October 18, 2008 at 5:13 pm)

 **CIMG0356 gondola and sticks.jpg *CIMG6209 canal at nite.jpg *CIMG6442 tower over water.jpg

*CIMG6372 stone head.jpg *CIMG6370 black tear stone head.jpg *CIMG6371 stone head.jpg
Believe the hype. Venice really IS one of the most beautiful, romantic, and tragic cities in the world. Tragic because it is slowly crumbling and will most likely be submerged for good one of these days. I just hope that fate is still centuries away.

*CIMG6320 canal door ramp building.jpg *CIMG6345 empty canal.jpg *CIMG6309 long old building by canal.jpg

Yes, the canals are dirty. Yes, the buildings and streets frequently flood (with nasty sewagey canal water, ugh!) And, yes, many of the once-colorful and ornate stucco facades have long since crumbled to expose algae-covered brick walls. It doesn’t matter. Even covered with slime and stinking and sinking into the sea, the canal-front doorsteps of Venice are an invitation to my soul. I could sit and stare dreaming at them for days.

*CIMG0354 chuch front close.jpg *CIMG6213 wide canal bridge night.jpg *CIMG6221 2 big pretty buildings at night.jpg *CIMG6356 building with candypoles.jpg *CIMG6442 tower over water.jpg *CIMG6391 corner canal at night1.jpg *CIMG6388 big canal at night.jpg
Don’t get me wrong – there is still LOTS of amazingly gorgeous architecture that hasn’t fallen apart. Moorish arched windows, (more…)

Mushrooms, Squat Blocks, and Alpine Cheese - Slovenia0

Posted by Jessica in balkans, SLOVENIA (January 14, 2008 at 7:27 pm)

CIMG6022 pumpkinhead family.jpg

Slovenia - the last country before we re-enter Italy and complete the circle. And it is a beauty!
CIMG0326 j with flowers.jpgCIMG6002 jesus crumblin house.jpgCIMG6025 sunset over plains.jpg

First we go to Liboje (lee-bo-yay), to visit Andrew’s friend James. He’s been ‘hiding out’ in this teensy tiny town for a few years now.
CIMG6047 james looks stern.jpg

It is surrounded by mountains, green pastures, endless skies, and a few townsfolk. Very few. We took a gorgeous hike to a hilltop looking out over the valley.
CIMG6033 nice view from top.jpgCIMG6030 james in woods.jpgCIMG6044a eats growing mushroom.jpg

James turned out to be a GREAT cook, making home-made apple pie and an amazing mushroom soup from the fresh mushrooms his friend and neighbor had picked that day. I still dream about that soup…
CIMG6003 neighbor n mushrooms.jpgCIMG6004 james cookin.jpg

Liboje was a nice, chill spot to (more…)

Sarajevo my love…0

Posted by Andrew in balkans, BOSNIA (December 19, 2007 at 1:42 am)

CIMG5695 a w dang ruin.jpg

For some reason, I was especially excited about going to Bosnia. I didn’t know much, but I knew they had a nasty war pretty recently.
CIMG0065 plane wreck at museum yrd.jpgCIMG0177 strt scape bulletholes.jpgCIMG5604 a w pocked bldg gorgeous.jpg

Well I was right about the war being nasty, and overall Bosnia didn’t disappoint. It was my favorite Balkan country for sure.
CIMG0026 graf at border.jpgCIMG0083 j w river.jpgCIMG0139 a w trolly windw.jpg

The recent war, and the ethnic and religious divisions were easier to understand than in Lebanon, but (more…)

Map of Mediterranean0

Posted by Jessica in unnamed country(sofar) (December 7, 2007 at 11:30 am)

This map covers all the mediterranean countries here we travelled in the last year.
Click on it to enlarge…

CIMG2921 med map poster.jpg

comin clean2

Posted by Andrew in PALESTINE, ISRAEL, CANADA (December 6, 2007 at 1:34 pm)

CIMG7266 lone man at wall.jpg

I really really dont like to lie, but once in a great while, there comes a time. In this case, it was for the sake of seeing lots of cool countries, who unfortunately wont let you in if youve been to Israel/Palestine/whatever you want to call it.(for us, Syria, Algeria, and Lebanon all would not have let us in–Libya too, but they wouldnt let us in anyway)
CIMG0680 bush barbed wire.jpg

First off, an apology to all of the people, friends at home and abroad, who we lied to. We just simply had to do it. Whether true or not, we’d heard stories of random people overhearing that a traveller had been to Israel, police somehow finding out, and then the person was kicked out of the country. We just couldnt take the chance, so we decided ahead of time to not tell anyone.
CIMG7402 talking to seller.jpg

So were gonna flash back to November 2006, and post some of the pics and observations that have been hidden on various hard drives, far from the eyes of border officials locked in one of the worlds most complicated conflicts.
CIMG7416 the wall shall fall_1.jpg

We were only in the forbidden lands for 3 nights. First, one night in Ramallah in the West Bank, (more…)

mitigating sticker-shock in croatia0

Posted by Andrew in EGYPT, CROATIA (November 16, 2007 at 4:28 pm)

CIMG5921 no ice cream cones.jpg
Lets get the hard part out of the way—Croatia was expensive! Especially at this late point in our trip, to see prices like Western Europe in the middle of the Balkans was an unexpected and difficult shock. So If you’ve been dreaming about the out of the way 2-dollar Croatian vacation, sorry you’ve already missed the boat, cause the days of post-communism are long gone round here…
CIMG5976 woman poster.jpg

But we are resilient, no? Por supuesto. With the help of some great couchsurfing hosts, Croatia comes alive. The best stop for sure was on the Dalmatian coast, CIMG5577 j with dalmatian.jpgwhere we stayed with Ljuba and her family in the town of Solin.
CIMG0019 us with ljuba mom and dog.jpgCIMG9992 ljubas tongue.jpg

Pomegranates off the tree for breakfast, a constant stream of Croatian porros, and an amazing once-a-year cultural event. In the nearby mountain town of Dugopolje, they were having their annual Klapa fest—Klapa is acoustic singing, sounds a bit like an American barber shop quartet, except there are 8, 10 or more people singing(either all men or all women)
CIMG5532 singers kids behind.jpgCIMG5552 singers under dugopolje.jpgCIMG9959 women singers screen.jpg

Click on these links below to listen to some Klapa—its good stuff.

The festival also featured some friendly non-musical competitions:
CIMG9948 start of tugowar.jpg

Possibly the best part was when the whole town gathered at a huge underground cave, where a Klapa group performed a short song. They sang really quietly so the cave wouldn’t collapse.
CIMG9933 stalagtites.jpg

And as luck would have it, Ljuba’s good friend was both a Klapa singer, and host of the before, midway and after parties.
CIMG9944 party deepblue dusk.jpgCIMG9916 mother shotglass.jpgCIMG9945 ljuba and xgirl.jpg

Ljuba also showed us around the beautiful and historic towns of Split and Trogir.
CIMG0001 tower at night.jpgCIMG0002 old church at night.jpgCIMG0004 commie projects.jpgCIMG0005 crack in old castle.jpgCIMG0014 old city boats water night.jpgCIMG9974 underground arches mountain.jpgCIMG9978 crumbled stone arch mountain.jpgCIMG9980 sunspekled j.jpgCIMG9984 ruins in field.jpg

And best of all, we got to ride in a Yugo!!
CIMG0022 yugo logo.jpg

Slightly less exciting was the Croatian capital of Zagreb. Staying at the home of Martina, (more…)


Posted by Andrew in ITALY (October 23, 2007 at 1:40 pm)

CIMG6662 a j sistine ceiling.jpg

Some thought it couldnt be done…

we made it all the way around the mediterranean sea.

But we aint done yet.

1 week in london, then back to NYC on October 30th.

–Email us with things to check out in the UK, and spots for halloween parties..

–stay tuned for more–past, present, and future…

The Land of Castles (and yummy fresh food)0

Posted by Jessica in ALBANIA, CROATIA, MONTENEGRO, MACEDONIA (October 22, 2007 at 5:19 pm)

CIMG9660 j rocky stairs to mountain.jpgCIMG5405 hilltop castle.jpg

Entering Albania from Greece was like going back to the middle east.
CIMG9519 womens head with sac1.jpgCIMG9361 dudes chilln on main street.jpg

Greece has shiny new busses, and Albania has run-down minivans that serve as shared taxis to get you around (and they are cheap!). While Greece was the culmination of a long return to the ‘western’ world’, Albania was more eastern feeling, and much less developed.
CIMG9311 stone rd to fortrss.jpgCIMG5409 some haystacks.jpgCIMG9645 guy in bike old street.jpgCIMG9530 line at library.jpg

First stop in ALBANIA is Berat, an old city with an inhabited hilltop fortress. You walk up a worn shiny marble-paved road to arrive at the ‘castle’ where there are whole neighborhoods living up there within the walls.
CIMG5306 man w sheep.jpgCIMG9325 castle lane arch door.jpgCIMG9314 kids run grparents watch.jpgCIMG9391 kid uphill w bike cobbles.jpgCIMG9383 throwing stones old man sunset.jpgCIMG9379 bridge w castle towers above.jpgCIMG9341 sunset w gold ruins.jpgCIMG9334 freestanding stone arch.jpg

We checked out another ‘typical Turkish house’ displaying ottoman-style home features and furnishings, CIMG9366 thousand windows.jpg
and damned if in the yard there weren’t a LIVE TURKEY!
CIMG5290 turkey guarding olive mill.jpg

For those young readers out there, and those who are geographically challanged, we are now traveling in the countries which used to be known as Yugoslavia.
CIMG5363 another unreadable sign.jpg

This means a few things: First of all, they used to be communist.
CIMG9596 commie couple art.jpgCIMG5369 a at cannon stoneface.jpg

Religion in this part of the world used to be either illegal or suppressed. So although we occasionally heard the call to prayer, (more…)

Are we Greek yet?0

Posted by Andrew in GREECE (October 10, 2007 at 2:02 pm)

CIMG9227 j with feta.jpgCIMG9076 grk flag w gull.jpg

We tried our hardest to assimilate—and we had lots of help in Greece. 4 cities—all couchsurfing with locals has given me a great appreciation for Greek hospitality. We had some of the best.

JESSICA SEZ: After spending months getting a LITTLE BIT used to the Arabic alphabet, and then breezing thru turkey where they at least use familiar letters – Greece comes along to kick you in the head like a mule.
CIMG5114 greek graf + window fan.jpg
Trying to read street signs and locate the ladies room – you almost wish you’d paid attention to those silly fraternities in college. Is this a menu or a physics test? Learning to sound out the greek letters became a favorite new game. We did passably well, and some of those letters will come back to help us when we hit kyrillic-kountry in the balkans later…
CIMG5119 oil museum sign.jpg

ANDREW RETURNZ: While most folks seem to spend a lot of time on the Greek islands, we only had time for 1—we took a boat from Turkey to the legendary isle of Lesvos…
CIMG9116 olive trees sloping down to sea.jpgCIMG9077 typical cafenieo w dudes.jpgCIMG9092 mytelene from castle walls.jpgCIMG9091 looking along castle walls.jpg

Our host Grigoris was a great guy, and just down the road, his friend Panagiotis is trying to keep alive the traditions of the kafeneio (café-NAY-yo).
CIMG5108 grig + cafeman.jpg
It’s a place to go drink coffee or liquor, and if you order ouzo, (more…)

THE CALL–a movie as promised0

Posted by Andrew in EGYPT, MOROCCO, TUNISIA, SYRIA, TURKEY (October 2, 2007 at 1:20 pm)

weve made alot of promises on this blog that we havent kept, about stories photos and such that we simply never got around to posting. But in honor of our 1 year anniversary of leaving the states(tomorrow–Ocotber 3rd) we will turn over a new leaf.

click here to watch a video featuring the infamous call or prayer from all over the arab world—for those who dont know, 5 times a day, all the mosques have a real(or sometimes recorded—boooo!) voice singing on a loudspeaker, letting people know that its about time to pray. It can be haunting at times, echoing down lonely streets, or startling in the middle of the night, depending on where your hotel window room is. But most of all its just a part of life, and after a while I didnt notice it half the time. Enjoy the movie…

JESSICA SEZ: there was only one place where anyone told us the call to prayer was recorded. the vast majority of the time, some dude gets himself to the mosque, 5 times a day, and sings his heart out. sometimes he’s a great singer, othertimes it’s all about heart. but it’s always cool. except if it’s pre-recorded. that’s just lame.

ANDREW RETURNZ: We are in Sarajevo today, coming from the beautiful Dalmatian coast of Croatia. of course, pictures will hopefully be posted about 3 weeks after weve been there(not everything is gonna change).

Next Page »